The Lone Ranger of Lonar – Bugdane Sir

The year is 1967. A team of scientists from NASA have descended upon the small insignificant town of Lonar in the Buldhana district of Maharashtra to study the unique crater formed by a meteorite impact, about 52,000 years ago. The principal of the local primary school is asked to depute an ‘English speaking teacher’ who can help the scientists get around. A young teacher, Mr. Sudhakar Bugdane is deputed for this job and thus begins the story of Bugdane Sir, a well known conservationist and the best resource person on everything in Lonar.

On every Breakfree trip we try and meet the local experts and when we visited Lonar last Holi, we made it a point to meet Bugdane Sir. Now, retired from the school after becoming the principal, he devotes all his time to the conservation efforts of Lonar. On weekends, if any group seeks him out then he is more than happy to show them around and not just around the temples of Lonar but also around the lake. He is well versed in the ancient epics and legends surrounding Lonar and explains every little detail in the sculptures that can be spotted on temples. He has amassed a wealth of information – both scientific and mythological surrounding the crater but clearly leans on the former. He dismisses the legends saying they were only created to explain the origin of the crater, for, back then, science was not fully developed.

70 year old Bugdane Sir walks slowly with a stick but narrates the story of Lonar in the most energetic manner. The only government approved guide in the region, he doesn’t charge a fee for his services. One can pay him what you like and nothing at all. The hike down to the lake  from the main road can be quite taxing, especially for those who aren’t used to hiking on a regular basis but Sir manages it well, although he gets breathless during the hike up, he refuses to rest and continues to climb until he reaches the top. Meeting passionate people like him is one of the highlights of our travels. In an age where everything is quickly commodified and sold, showing people around the lake and the main town solely for spreading awareness is commendable.

 I ask him why he doesn’t send someone else on his behalf to show us around the lake instead of doing the entire hike by himself. He chuckles and says that is a good idea, as it takes a toll on him but he enjoys it too. His family is of course worried but he simply loves coming down by the lake, walking along the shaded pathway, sometimes encountering a python, a hyena or a peacock or just the brahminy ducks that spend their winters at the lake.

It is heartening to know that such selfless people exist. It is also very inspiring to meet them. However, not all value his services. He tells me that certain groups do engage him for the day but don’t pay attention to what he has to say, don’t pay him at all and aren’t helpful during the hike up and down to the lake. But he doesn’t let these bad experiences deter him from what he does best – share the story of Lonar. His short book on Lonar is available everywhere in the town.  It is only a surprise that not as many local youth are enthusiastic about the significance of Lonar and although, Bugdane Sir’s efforts at instilling that attitude in the youth seem to be bearing some fruit, it is not entirely relieving. One can only hope, the legacy of Bugdane Sir’s research, conservation and awareness efforts continues to live on.

 

Photo Courtesy: Niraja Bhagat, Meenal Ce, Raylene Monteiro

Media Mentions of Bugdane Sir: Deccan Herald, Times of India, Sakaal ICAST

Media Mentions of Bugdane Sir: Deccan Herald, Times of India, Sakaal ICAST

Amidst the Ruins and Boulders

Last year I visited Hampi by myself, impressed by its boulders and monuments I took along 8 other backpackers this year. Our trip in short! Complete set of photos can be found here.

———

Walking in the Hampi Bazaar

It is half past ten in the night when we set out of Bobby’s, the moonlight guiding the way. We are on the dirt track that leads to the boulder lined hillocks, frequented by climbers from all over. We reach the base of the hill and lie down on the hard, cold granitic surface. Not many words are exchanged, there’s only one thing weighing in on our minds – the last night in Hampi. After spending the past few days living like locals, it dawns upon us that after all we are only travellers to this region. A tinge of sadness overcomes us as we watch the bright moon cast its white glow all around us, around then grey clouds march in from the east. This seems like monsoon all over again, the clouds engulf the shining satellite leaving behind only a pale halo over our heads. We wait for it eagerly to appear and it does, after a while only to be covered again by a thin wisp of a cloud that resembles a veil that doesn’t hide everything but that doesn’t reveal too much either. The moon appears elsewhere now and it seems that it is in motion, we feel the earth’s rotation a bit more clearly now and we are tripping on the magic of Hampi without smoking anything. A fruit bat makes its way and we wonder if owls would also fly overhead.

On a coracle

 

Sanapur

We find ourselves fondly reminiscing about the past few days, since the time nine travellers set out to visit this magical land. From the bus ride between Bombay and Hospet to the boat ride to Virupapur Gadde – the Hampi island. The strenuous cycle ride to Sanapur, the refreshing dip afterwards, the lunch at 4pm at Jambhovan (with no sight of bears) and the scramble up the 563 steps of Anjanadri hill to watch the setting sun cast a glow on the erstwhile Vanara kingdom – Kishkinda, a langoor tugging at our bag, watching a pair of Indian Mongoose walk past unmindful of us, the cycle walk on the winding roads under the night sky and the reassuring ginger lemon honey served with love by chef Ashok of the Oh La La Cafe. The early morning runs, the yoga sessions, the birding sessions and heavy but healthy breakfasts, the walks by the Tungabhadra, the rides on the coracle that stops at temples and carvings ignored by guidebooks and blogs, tales of nautch girls and car festivals, the erotic imagery on the walls of Vitthala and the music emanating from its pillars, collectively pausing to photograph the Hoopoe and combining lunch and dinner to dunch at the Mango tree now at an ordinary location in Hampi bazaar, missing the ferry and enjoying the coracle under the moonlight, sharing the silence as waters of Tungabhadra glistened under the moon, more soup, laughter, dumb charades, strange happenings by the river bank and the silence of the night.

 

The moped rides across the ruins, experiencing the grandeur of the kings, imagining Tenali raman sharing his pearls of wisdom and solving life’s greatest mysteries as Krishnadevaraya (with the smallpox mark distinct on his face)looks appreciatively, the wars and invasion, the Kanishka expedition, the dance festivals, the bustling bazaars, the pushkarnis with women bathing – now left alone, ravaged by the invaders, ignored by the rest and now slowly being restored, enjoying the silence amidst the ruins, the successful hunt for hot bondas and another climb up Matanga hill to catch the sunset, exchanging notes with other travellers, watching the moon rise over Achyutaraya temple and another coracle ride under the moon, ginger lemon honey followed by steaming momos and soup and the walk under the moonlight.

 

Bouldering

It isn’t cold that night, maybe the cloud cover is to be blamed. We continue to lie down and stay captivated by the moon that reflects the radiance of the sun but still holds its charm over us. Our final day in Hampi dawns and there is no hint of the sun. It is gloomy, overcast and exactly like our many monsoon treks. Incidentally, we are going bouldering. We try our hands on the huge rocks, small crimps to support us, to test the strength of our muscles and mind, a crash pad to break our fall and a thunderous applause to encourage us, we scramble and we tumble, but eventually make it to the top of a few boulders, the light breeze is our reward and our sweaty brows cool down a bit, a malkoha peeps through a bush while a mongoose ambles about. Sooner, a thunder fills the air as our mopeds, scooters and a Bullet ride away to the lake, where it all began. Some of us choose to float away on the coracle while others ride away to Anegondi, one of us climbs Matanga and each one of us has their own story to tell, all this while there’s a light drizzle, bags are packed, keys returned and as the sun moves westwards, our tumtum roars on the new station road, the last tumbler of filter coffee at Shanbhag follows and a Volvo bus ambles near the Hospet court to take us back home. Just like the lingering taste of strong filter coffee, the flavour of Hampi, the magic of Kishkinda, the grandeur of Vijayanagara will continue to linger on our mind.

Living by the Sea at Palolem – Part 2

Birds of Palolem

Sunrise

An early morning by the beach is always fantastic. Deserted but for a few runners, the newspaper guy and the dogs, when I woke up to find the sun shining over the balcony. Less than a kilometre away, lies monkey island or kaankon just by the beach and the hillock adjoining it is home to many langoors and a variety of trees . A small estuary is formed to the northern end of the beach. This combined with the dense vegetation of the two hillocks makes this side a mini hotspot for the bird life of Palolem. I walk about excitedly to spot a wooden bridge leading to Ordo Sounsar. It serves as a great perch for many kingfishers flying about. I spot the bright blue common kingfisher perched on top, only to fly over the surface of the estuary in search of its meal.

A golden oriole seems to be duelling with a myna as they swiftly fly across overhead. In the bushes, two green bee-eaters fly about gracefully catching bees in flight. A black kite flies close to the ground while a Brahminy kite circles the peak, its mew-mew call resounding through the morning air. Almost at the same time, I hear the omnipresent call of the white breasted kingfisher which is perched on the same bridge. A white raptor catches my eye and while I peer closely, the white bellied sea eagle collecting nesting material comes into sight. No other raptors are spotted, a cormorant sits on a branch basking in the sun while a few bulbuls chatter about with the langoors. A crow pheasant flies from the bushes and perches itself on a cocunut tree.

A lifer

On another day, while I roam about I see a flash of blue. It is definitely a kingfisher but which one? I don’t want to dismiss it as the wbkf without confirming so I move stealthily. On the rocks moving as slowly as possible, trying to peer into the mangroves that it flew to. I sit down and stay still, hoping that it would make an appearance soon. My patience pays off and soon enough it flies out and perches on a high branch. Without binoculars, I can still make out that it has a black head and the bill resembles a kf, definitely the black-capped kingfisher! This is a lifer for me as I sit there and watch it bob up and down on the branch. I curse myself for not getting a camera but still revel in the joy of having sighted it.

Paddling in the Sea

Kayaking is one of my favourite activities. Having tried it at Kolad in the Kundalika river, I was keen on trying it out in the sea. So when the many colourfully lined kayaks came into sight one morning, I couldn’t resist (Rs. 200/hour). Sea kayaking is not very different than fresh water but when the sun beats down upon you as you paddle your way into the sea, you certainly feel the strain. The sun is up as the kayak named DJ19 moves in the water, unsteady at first and stable later. I don’t paddle too far out but the view of the entire beach from the middle of the sea is quite amazing. Colourful huts and shacks, the coconut trees swaying in the gentle breeze, kids and adults swimming about on one side while on the other the emerald island of Kaankon. I don’t know when the hour passes and I paddle out to the shore. I promise that I will come again but I don’t manage to, perhaps on my next visit during the sunset hour and with a camera in a waterproof bag.

Swimming

Swimming in the sea at Palolem is a delight. The seabed slopes ever so gently that it was possible for me to walk about hundred meters or more until I was fully submerged. Non swimmers can venture out much farther from the shore and the swimmers can even swim upto the island. If you are a swimmer then a dip here in the sea is definitely a treat. For additional safety of the swimmers, there are three lifeguard posts with two guards stationed at every 800 meters or so while a red jeep belonging to them keeps patrolling the beach. 

More Information

There is a lot more to do in Palolem – a silent disco party at Neptune point, a boat ride to a secluded beach with a promise of sighting Dolphins ( Rs.800/hr) and also sipping cocktails and while you laze around the beach. Food is passable, expensive and everything but Goan cuisine can be found here in the restaurants run by cooks from Nepal who are a norm in most destinations popular amongst travellers.

Getting to Palolem: I took the bus from Madgaon but the best way is to book yourself on a train stopping at Cancona Railway station. (ToPalolem: 70-90, 10 mins by auto) The downside being that Nethravati express from Bombay departs at 11 am and arrives at 11pm. 

Stay: Palolem has a mix of travellers. But from my observation a good number of foreign travellers aren’t backpackers. They spend a lot on alcohol, seafood and accommodation options but there are enough budget friendly huts available, a few meters away from the beach. As far as cheap food is concerned, a few local eateries on the main road (around the CCD outlet) are also available. Good budget options are also available at Chawadi, near the Cancona bus stand, 3km away (Rs.10, bus, 10 minutes or direct autorickshaw Rs. 70)

Recommendations:

Stay at Sai Valentine – friendly staff, prompt service, decent food

Eat: Chaska, a quaint restaurant on the rocks, extreme southern end of the beach. No signboards, just follow the bridge leading up on the rocks. Friendly staff, moderately priced food, brilliant beach view.

Travel: Go around on foot, there are other beaches and a fort accessible by buses from Chawadi but I stayed on the beach.

Palolem was a short break but had been incredible. The same VRL bus brought me home from Madgaon within 13 hours and I am already thinking of the next time at this beautiful beach and my time in the beautiful state of Goa.

Some more photos:

Living by the Sea at Palolem – Part 1

The Journey

I had always heard of Cancona (Kaan-kon) from my mother who as a young girl had holidayed in this sleepy town in the South of Goa. It seemed like an ideal place to be, houses with sloping roofs, dense vegetation, a lively bazaar and lots of fish. It was only in 2008 that I read about Palolem(Paa-lo-le) and I had a new place on my list. Each time I passed Cancona station on the Konkan railway, I longed to get there. Last year, I passed through Cancona bus stand and still didn’t get down. But last week on an impulse, I found myself on a VRL bus headed to Madgaon (Semi-sleeper A/C, 14 hrs, Rs. 560). My destination was Palolem.

Having heard some great stuff about this beach, I was naturally excited when I boarded the direct bus from KTC Bus stand, Margao to Palolem (2 hrs, Rs. 40) These small buses are quite common in Goa. Similar to the ST buses in Maharashtra, except that they are privately owned and no tickets are issued.

A Warm Goan Lady

A lady dressed in a black and white top and black trousers, smelling good and very reminiscent of one of my school teachers, boarded somewhere near Navelim (Naa-ve-li). Our eyes met and we exchanged smiles. She asked me 

“On Holiday?”

“Yes, going to Palolem”

“Be careful huh, many people have drowned there, take care”

“More half an hour to Palolem?”

“A little more, now ghats will come no” she said almost apologetically, “But this bus goes fast, it will come soon” she added.

Her stop neared and she repeated her warning. I assured her that I would be safe, she smiled in return and got off at Cuncholim (Kun-ko-li) leaving behind the warmth of the Goans, that I have grown so fond of.

First Impressions

After the ghat ended, the bus rushed past the chaar rasta and in a moment the typical Colaba causeway type shops started appearing on either side of the road. There was no sign of the beach and it was only when the conductor announced the last stop, I caught a glimpse of the shimmering waters of the Arabian sea. Touts approached and I declined their services, an advantage of being an Indian in a place populated by foreign travellers is that the touts don’t pester you too much. Coconut trees line the shore just behind the shacks as the beach curved into a perfect crescent with soft sand and a gentle slope. 

Lounging about

My Beach Hut

Made my way to Sai Valentine, a small complex of brightly coloured beach huts, lying to the extreme north (quieter) end. Owned by the very affable Krishna and managed very efficiently by his nephew Brijesh – locals (whom I usually prefer dealing with), they were still setting up the huts. The local law mandates that all structures on the beach be taken down from May to Oct, so most huts are temporary and built from locally available material, thus offer a basic but a very comfortable experience.

My hut to the far left

My hut was on stilts, about twenty feet high up from the ground, facing the sea. A basic bed with an attached bath with hot water, a balcony overlooking the sea, a window with one way glass mirrors and all this for a princely sum of Rs. 1500/night, (bargain hard, got it down from 2500 to this, still not cheap by backpacking standards but worth every rupee.) The blue water shimmered in front of me, as I sat in the balcony reading the American adventures of R K Narayan as he made his way to the Grand Canyon (My Dateless Diary) After hearing about it for so long, I had arrived in Palolem, the journey had been relaxed but I was looking forward to spending my time here, by the sea, as I always wanted to.

View from the Balcony

from my bed

Daily Miracles 

Daily Miracle – always full of wonder

The sunset could be seen from the balcony but walking to the extreme ends of the crescent is recommended. It is a daily miracle, witnessed by the many sun worshippers who spend the day under the glaring sun, getting the perfect tan. To watch it turn a bright red and then eventually sink into the sea. A few kayakers paddle right up, while some pose in their bikinis against the setting sun (A shoot for the Russian Playboy in Goa perhaps?) A flock of wood sandpipers forage on the rocks while a few common sandpipers scuttles about the beach, looking for treats left by the ebbing tide.

Sights, Smells and Sounds of The Night

After sundown, most eateries set up tables on the sand, complete with a candle lit lamp. The local stray dogs roam about these tables looking for scraps of meat thrown by the diners. Overall, it is a pretty sight, the candle lit table lining the beach. However, the shacks cause a lot of light pollution with their lit signage and other lights in the dining area, so what could have been a starlit sky appears as a dark blanket with some glimmer spilled sporadically on it. The smell of grilled fish wafts through the air as a tandoor runs at every shack but the food at almost all places is overpriced, bland, identical and  passable (Avg meal for two: Rs. 600 excluding drinks, seafood priced as per size but still ridiculously expensive, better fare available back home in Bombay) The open mic session next door has tourists crooning popular songs but they grow silent soon and the waves take over.

In the silent night, it is almost magical to lie down and listen to the sound of waves, as they crash onto the beach leaving behind life in shells and molluscs. This is a first for me and I am soon fast asleep, comforted by the reassuring waves outside my window. A perfect lullaby. 

Virupapur Gaddi – The Beach Side of Hampi (Sans the Sea)

Experience has taught me that early mornings are the best time to arrive into a new place. It was nice to witness the bustle at dawn near Virupaksha temple, which has been standing sombrely near Hampi Bazaar since the 15th century. Devotees took a bath by the river before entering the temple for Darshan, but what was I doing by the river side early morning? Well, I was waiting for the boat. For, I had decided to stay on ‘the other side’ – Virupapur Gaddi(VG) popularly known as Hampi Island. Separated from Hampi Bazaar and the main temple complexes only by the Tungabhadra, it is one of the best places to base yourself during your stay here. Connected to the Bazaar only by a boat service(20 with luggage, 15 otherwise), there are several reasons why VG scores over pretty much everything else around but I chose it primarily for a distinct traveller vibe that is felt quite prominently on this side. Life here seems laidback and chilled out. It is just like being on a beach, except that the only thing missing here is the sea. Availability of budget accommodation options (as cheap as 100/night in a Bamboo Hut), good number eating joints and mopeds and bicycles on rent(150/50 day, fuel: 100) are other reasons to live here. Although chicken and other meats are banned in Hampi Bazar, it is served with delight on this side.

Sanapur lake

Virupapur Gaddi also houses activities and places that usually don’t find a mention on the conventional tourist map of Hampi(Quite literally so, a local handbook I purchased has a detailed map of only the main area). Sanapur Lake, a serene reservoir located about 4km away from VG is a fantastic place to spend a few hours. A few signboards warn you about the presence of crocodiles but most of the locals rubbish this warning. As a result, a lot of travellers can be seen swimming around in the lake and some even try cliff jumping from above some of the tall rocks that line the shore. I was in no mood to swim but I had a good session of birdwatching by the lake. Pied Kingfisher and the Common Kingfisher put on a fantastic display of their hunting capabilities while a White Wagtail, roamed a few feet from me. There were countless number of bee eaters and a few Brahminy Kites circling the water body too.

Chintamani Temple Complex, Anegondi

Anegondi(also spelt Anegundi), the erstwhile capital of the Vijayanagar kingdom also lies just 7 km away from VG. The name literally means Elephant’s pit and is home to the nearest ATM(Axis Bank). I cycled down to Chintamani complex which houses the cave where Vali had held Sugreeva’s wife, it is also the spot where Rama and Lakshmana arrived at looking for Sita and also nearby lies the spot where the epic battle between Sugreeva and Vali took place. Where Rama slayed Vali and ensured, the kingdom of Kishkindha for Sugreeva. Other fascinating places which find a prominent mention in the Ramayana located at Anegondi are the Pampa Reservoir, Sabari’s cave and Anjana Parvath. Cave paintings depicting life in the earlier times can be found a km away from Anegundi towards VG.The Hanuman Temple atop this hill is one of the higher points of the region. 500 steps take you to the top and the Sunset from here is supposed to be beautiful, rewarding the climber with a panoramic view of the whole of Anegundi and the Hampi ruins on the other side of the Tungabhadra.

Jerry(Red shorts), taking a break from Climbing

Travelling to Hampi only for the boulders

Bouldering: I had read a great deal about the bouldering opportunities available in Hampi and was amazed at seeing such a growing interest in this small town amongst world’s top climbers! So when I heard about a basic introductory programme started by two enterprising young kids named Tom and Jerry (who also own a climbing gear shop by the same name), I signed up immediately. For 350 bucks, they provide you with climbing shoes, a crash pad and chalk powder – all the equipment you would need for getting started. One of them comes along with you as a guide/instructor. Jerry accompanied us and the session began with some pretty simple stretching exercises which advanced gradually, making me realise how drastically my fitness levels have fallen! Sooner, we were dusting chalk powder on our hands and trying to solve ‘problems’ – navigating small crimps(extensions and crevices on seemingly smooth rock) to ascend a boulder not more than 10 ft. Just as it is usually, when the expert demonstrated it seemed easy. However, when I tried it, I got worn out pretty easily. But after some effort, I had managed to climb a few times quite successfully. Just when I was starting to get a little excited, the sole of my already worn out climbing shoes came off. The only option was to climb bare feet or sit and clap. Well, you can figure what I chose to do. It was worth every drop of sweat.

A lot of foreign travellers were present that evening. Not all of them amateurs though. Most of them were professional climbers. A climber from Israel, practicing closeby told me that he had arrived in Hampi only for the boulders. And that was the story of the most climbers present. In VG, climbing is practiced in the hill located opposite to Goan Corner(five minute walk from the jetty) One can rent a crash pad for 80 bucks a day from Goan Corner or other climbing stores including Tom and Jerry. Shoes are also available on rent. Mornings(6-10) and evenings (4-Sunset) are the best times to practice bouldering. An introductory course should be enough to get you familiarised but one can also just tag along with the horde of climbers that descend(or should I say ascend!, sorry) in this little corner of Virupapur Gaddi. I was quite disappointed to see almost no Indians trying their hand at Bouldering, a few instructors and I were the only Indians present. It is surprising how people from all over the world take so much interest in the natural beauty that our country is endowed so generously with and yet we continue to neglect it.

Mr. Lav, Chef, RJ, Playwright

Evenings in Virupapur were spent chilling with friends and travellers at the uber cool Oh La La cafe housed at Bobby’s Guest house and run by the very affable Mr. Luv (Ramayana is everywhere in Hampi!) from Kathmandu. He also ran the German Bakery, pies and cakes of which bore the seal of approval of many western travellers! His stories about his working life in Hampi, Leh and Himachal kept us entertained. The Chef is not only a culinary expert but also a qualified RJ, a poet and a playwright. His philosophy of living is governed by the fact that we live only once and everything is worth trying out. So when he is not cooking, he is back in Kathmandu interviewing celebrities for the local radio channel, setting cultural programs and directing plays. He intends to settle down in his country with his children and family but until then he is happy whipping up fluffy cakes, hot teas and delicious food for us weary travellers to keep us going!

Hanuman is Omnipresent

Tales of travellers are fun to hear but I generally prefer the stories that the locals have to share. In India, a lot many western travellers mistakenly categorize all Indians as same, from the North to South. Each local has a different take on India and the region that they call home, most of the times, overcoming the language barrier and communicating with them does lead to newer, exciting possibilities as I was to find out!